06.04, friday - out of the valley of death

we survived.  we made it out of the valley, up to towne pass, down into paramint valley, up to the top of the pass, down to the eastern sierras.  it took some luck, some help from newfound friends, and maybe a little will power.

we woke up at towne pass at 5:00am.  

it didn't take long to stow gear since the only thing we had out were our sleeping bags.  sleeping on gravel without a pad is a little rough, but we were tired enough.  bonus:  sometime in the early morning, we got to experience a few drops of rain.


we had one more valley to go to leave the national park.  it had been described to us as a 'u'.  a big drop down, then the floor of the valley, then a 2,000+ foot climb back up the other side.  in the bottom of the valley is panamint springs 'resort', private gas station, restaurant, motel, and a campground.

it turned out waiting till morning to head downhill was a wise move.  we didn't go very far before there was a 'next 6 miles - 9% grade.'  whoa, that's steep.  the road cut down through the rockscape that is nevada/eastern california. 


brakes applied all the way down till the last 2 miles, which were only a 5% grade, across the desert sand of the valley floor then slightly up to paramint springs resort.

geesh, what a joke.  i don't know how the national park allows this place to be so poorly run. the restaurant was closed and there was no signage indicating when it might be open or even if it would be open.  the gas station had a little sign saying 'be back at 8.'  the gas station did open at 8.  they told us the restaurant should open around 8, as well.  when we finally left, around 8:30, there were still no signs of life.


we found bathrooms and water off the porch of the restaurant and there were tables to sit at.  so we sat on the porch, ate some food and weighed options.  maurice was not feeling well, he was still having trouble getting over the heat exhaustion.  walking uphill all night, dragging the bikes, hadn't helped. we had a 2,000+ foot climb ahead of us that we were thinking would look similar to the one we just came down. pretty steep.  so maurice decided once again to try and flag a ride down.


around 30 minutes later, we had wonderful luck.  there was a camper van, one of two in the campground, pulling out.  maurice flagged them down and they were more than willing to help us.  we discovered they were a young italian (no way!) couple, clara and ty, living in chicago, out on an a multi-week tour of national parks.  we loaded the bikes in the van, crossways through the sliding door, and asked them how far they were going. they replied 'furnace creek.'   my heart sank and we pointed out that it was in the other direction, they had taken the wrong turn out of the campground.  but they said "nevermind, we'll take you to the top anyway."  road angles, what wonderful people.


they dropped us near the top, 8 miles up, where we started riding again.  we rode for another 10 miles before the road dropped, the mountains gave way, and the seirras appeared in the distance.  a gorgeous sight to behold.  

we rode down to the 'high desert', just under 4,000 feet elevation, rolling between volcanic debris.  and then the dried up, alkaline remains of owens lake.  about 13 miles short of lone pine, our destination, we pulled over to absorb the rare piece of shade we'd found.  keener, california, population 58.


while lying in there in the shade, a woman, a bit younger than us, strolls by.  maurice asks if there is anywhere to buy some cold water.  she says 'no, but i've got some at my house you can have.' so maurice leaves to walk to her house with her.   10 minutes later a pick up truck rolls up, tammy jumps out and says, ' put your stuff in the truck, we're taking you to our place.  he's in no condition to go anywhere.'  before you know it, we're in their weekend retreat, a converted mobile home trailer with add ons.  there's a group of friends, 5 or 6 women who used to play soccer together, travel to tournaments. and one husband.  they're plying us with water, giving us food, and generally incorporating us into their weekend fun. 

a couple of hours later, still 100 degrees outside, they drive us into lone pine to the hotel we're staying at for the night.

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