06.07 - heading up into the sierras

in the morning, we were up early again, said goodby to gigi, and started out ready to do some climbing out of the river valley and up toward mono lake basin, 

10 miles outside of bishop, we rolled off the main highway, 395, and on to a side road for a more relaxed and scenic climb.

through the little town of paradise, originally a cabin resort, where the old restaurant, now a home, straddles a mountain stream.  we actually saw running water.  water that helps feed the growth of los angeles a couple of hundred miles away.

a short drop down into whiskey canyon, where we came to a mountain stream and ponderosa pines.  the pines are changing, getting taller and wider, with red trunks and long needles.  we sat by the rushing water and enjoyed the change.

at the top of the canyon, tom's place, the local bar, eatery.

then downhill into mammoth lake basin, which we were to learn is in fact a cauldera, the remains of an old volcanic cone that blew a long time ago.  the crust is thin here and allows the area to tap into it for geothermal heat.  we also discovered that there was a headwind.  a really strong headwind.

after struggling for a couple of miles, we needed to stop and get out of the wind.  looking around there was only one building, a derilict looking place, but there were a couple of cars there and a wide open front door.  so we stopped and i went in to ask if we could shelter on the lee side.

inside, there were a set of dog sleds and a bunch of photo displays. two guys answered my shout.  turns out they were mushers, a dog sled touring company.  they proceeded to take us out back and show us their kennel and about two dozen dogs:  malamute, siberian huskies, and recently acquired greenland huskies.  each is chained up to his/her dog house.  they get all excited when strangers show up,  jumping up on top then back down.  maurice did some bonding.

 

james was from conneticut and had moved here years ago to learn mushing.  he talked nonstop about the dogs, their different characteristics, taking care of them, the whole job.  could barely get a question in; he loved what he does.

jim, the owner, is from mammoth, born and raised.  he went to work for the previous owner, spent four years in the marines, then worked for awhile up in alaska, finally coming back home when the previous owner told him he was ready to sell.

jim waxed on about his life, issues of keeping the business going, changes in the weather. some years there are as little as 3 weeks to make enough money for the whole year,  we stayed a couple of hours, but finally decided to say goodbye to jim and head back into the wind.  we were able to beat into the wind for a mile or so until, as predicted by jim, we were able to get into a wind break created by the pine forest.  eventually climbing deadman pass and then dippin' down into lee vining and mono lake.

we got into lee vining at dusk.  stopped briefly to eye the road that headed up the mountain to yosemite.  earlier plans had me riding that 3,000 ft climb that has 8-16% grades, but having been there with suzi a couple of years ago i had changed the route to take the lower elevation of donner pass by way of lake tahoe.

lee vining is a small town, a jumping off spot to head up to yosemite.  there are several motels, a coffee shop and a couple of restaurants.  we stopped at several hotels and found no rooms available.  dark was approaching, the wind was blowing and it was cooling down.  finally, a couple of older gents pointed us toward a small rv camp just on the edge of the town.  perfect.  we pulled in and were met by a woman and her two young kids.  her husband was off kyacking, but this was their base camp complete with rv. her kids wanted to give us ice cream and when she asked if we needed anything else, i noted that maurice could use a good warm blanket.  she ended up lending him a big, white down comforter.  he slept warm that night.